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All That Glitters

09 april 2009

From Calder to bedazzled tribal cuffs, the jewels at New York Fashion Week were oversized and outrageous, says.

If this season's Fashion Week jewelry could talk, it probably wouldn't stop saying "look at me." Statement baubles, cuffs and earrings (that wrap around the ear rather than pierce it) have all played roles in enhancing the moody looks strutting down runways at Bryant Park and beyond.

At Donna Karan, necklaces fashioned from oversized gold baubles and jacks (as in the children's sidewalk game) doubled as collars atop turtlenecks. At Marc Jacobs, neckwear was significantly more colorful, yet similarly tactile—one particular bib necklace crafted from dozens of glimmering, sizeable gems helped contribute to Jacobs' '80s club era aesthetic. At Thakoon, accessories, which were the handiwork of Subversive Jewelry's Justin Giunta, were eye-catching as well; each graphic and oversized, adorned with large diamonds and mirrored slabs, generating a feel of both luxury and whimsy. At Michelle Obama favorite Jason Wu's show, jewelry designer Philip Crangi crafted intricate crowns, prime for topping off Wu's regal, elegant looks.

Saturday, Yigal Azrouel complemented his punk-rock collection with tribal-inspired accessories courtesy of New York-based jewelry designer Pamela Love (included in the mix was a studded, leather cuff that wrapped three-quarters of its wearer's forearm…not exactly subtle). At Alexander Wang, the designer showed off the fruits of his collaboration with Brooklyn-based designer Paris Kain of Abraxas Rex (who worked with Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein). Wang's silver cuffs and earrings that encircle the ear, outfitted with dagger-like appendages, were far from demure. Lastly, at Elise Øverland, the jewelry was sourced from Parisian artist Alexander Calder (whom the Whitney recently honored with a retrospective). Calder is famous for his mobile creations, and his jewelry is similarly fascinating—it bends and twists and looks almost malleable.

The ubiquity of statement jewelry at New York Fashion Week seems to be yet another straightforward sartorial byproduct of the recession. With critics ringing in the death of the designer 'It' bag, it was only a matter of time until the focus on handbags as must-have accessories transferred to statement shoes, and, now, statement jewels. At least for New Yorkers, jewels are a far safer investment (or impulse buy, depending) than designer shoes—not so easily destroyed by the not-so-kind city streets.

According to, in the vibrant caravan of color that was Diane von Furstenberg's runway show at New York Fashion Week, watches and jewelry anchored the designer's nomadic theme with a sense of classic luxury.

Whimsical hats, luxurious textiles, intricate embroidery, layered knits and even pom-poms were among the feminine silhouettes featured in the designer's fall 2009/winter 2010 ready-to-wear collection.

But also part of the mix was the new Sutra Sport watches from the Diane von Furstenberg by H. Stern collection, which were featured alongside the designer's big, bold "Sutra" bracelets and her "Power Rings."

A direct evolution from the jewelry line, the Sutra watch collection was launched in the United States, Europe and the Middle East in fall 2008, with additional territories planned for 2009. The watches retail for $1,500 to $1,600 and are available in stainless steel or in stainless steel with black PVD coating.

The collection from von Furstenberg won't be the only fine jewelry at Fashion Week. Cartier plans to unveil its new "Trinity Line" at the 3.1 Phillip Lim runway show, according to a report in Women's Wear Daily. The collection includes the Trinity ring, originally conceived in 1924 and composed of three interlocking rings of white, rose and yellow gold, representing friendship, love and fidelity, respectively.

The portal also informs that jewelry brand Marco Bicego has made model Bridget Hall their promotional face. She has appeared in ads for everything from Guess Jeans and Pepsi to Valentino and Versace. And now she's adding designer jewelry brand Marco Bicego to her ever-growing roster of high-profile campaigns.

Beginning with the March issues of C, Elle, Harper's Bazaar and W, the supermodel will appear in the brand's new 2009/2010 international print advertising campaign, shot in New York by fashion photographer Kenneth Willardt.

Hall will wear pieces from the brand's "Jaipur" collection, which includes designs crafted in 18-karat yellow gold with colored gemstones such as amethyst, peridot, blue topaz, and rose and green tourmaline.

With the help of Marco Bicego's creative team and its art director, Terri Pecora, Willardt created an ambiance that is tastefully minimalistic yet urban and cosmopolitan. The ads reflect an ever-present element of nature, which has served as the inspiration for all Marco Bicego designs.

Top model Hall rose to fame in the 1990s, achieving supermodel status alongside peers such as Cindy Crawford and Christy Turlington.

According to Marco Bicego, the runway veteran and long-time cover girl is the embodiment of the Marco Bicego brand: feminine, refined, self-aware, full of life and determination.