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Design is the key to all markets

10 june 2019

laksh_pahuja_xx.pngBesides being an astute businessman, Mumbai-born Laksh Pahuja is a designer par excellence known globally for his awe-inspiring unusual jewellery pieces. Trained at the Gemological Institute of India and Harrow College of Art England, Laksh combines his qualification, formal training with his inherent talent to create extraordinary jewellery pieces. Well versed with international trends, he blends them with his own style and gives each masterpiece its distinct uniqueness. Drawing inspiration from nature, Laksh’s Signature Creations have never been seen, heard, or conceived before anywhere in the world. His designs have been recognized globally and have adorned beautiful ladies including Ms Universe 2005 Natalie Glebova, Ms World Aishwarya Rai and many more.

Laksh has been recognized and awarded for his creativity since the late ‘80s, including George Scheutz (GIA) Memorial Fund Jewelry Award in 1989 for Earrings, D. T. C. Indian Jewelry Design Award in 1990 for a Brooch, GJEPC Solitaire Award in 2003 for a Calf ornament titled as “Sensuality”, In 2012 Swarovski Gems Visions 2012, Jewellers Choice Design Awards in 2011, Solitaire Awards “ Gandhiji Vision” in 2010 to name a few.

Here, in an interview with Rough & Polished, Laksh Pahuja, MD, Gemma Designer Jewels, in his own inimitable style, allows us a peek into his creative soul.

Some excerpts:

The jewellery industry knows you as a celebrated jewellery designer, but what inspired you? Do you come from a jewellery family background or is it an inherent natural desire to design? Please take us down the road of your journey as a designer, for the benefit of our readers.

Yes, indeed I take great pride as I come from a family of jewellers and have witnessed some great work done by my ancestors.

However, I desired to design, and it started when my father complimented my first ever creations with just one hug and a kiss.

Your name is associated with ‘unusual jewellery’ … those that have never been seen before. Is it a conscious effort to be different or is it ‘sudden inspirations’ that compels you to design such pieces? Tell us more about the thought process in your mind, which has left many of us wondering.

I will replace the word Compel with Contribution and Creativity. Contributions would be towards my Country and the legends. And I would like to teach the youth to create and not copy. 

excl_20052019_1.pngImage credit: Laksh Pahuja 


Of all your ‘one of a kind’ pieces, which one surprised you yourself when you set your eyes on the finished piece? The ‘One’ that turned out more awesome than what you imagined? Why do you feel so? Your thoughts?

All my pieces are close to my heart, however, the top three will be:

a) World’s first live fish necklace.
b) World’s first jewel with real fire.
c) World’s first Real Ice necklace on Global Warming.

And, when I ponder over these creations, one thing that comes to my mind is that 'Nothing is Impossible'.

Do you use any unusual material in your unique designer pieces? Generally what metals and gemstones feature in your designer pieces…do diamonds figure too? Besides unique designs, have you in the past designed (or design at present) regular wearable jewellery as well? Give us more info about your work on the whole.

As a creator and design virtuoso, I like not to be restricted. I chase my dreams and being a goldsmith it’s an additional advantage as I can mold any materials into pieces of Art.

excl_20052019_2.png                             Image credit: Laksh Pahuja 


Does your ‘one of a kind’ pieces get sold? Also, if you are dabbling in the jewellery business as well, give us a brief profile of your company and products. Have you launched any collections recently? Your jewellery is sold in the Indian domestic sector or exported as well? More details, please…

My 'One of a Kind' Collection is not for sale, unless I find the right connoisseur who will know the finances involved.

You have been in the gem and jewellery industry for decades now, so what're your views on the current global jewellery sector? Demand-wise, currently what sells in major consuming markets, white or coloured diamonds? Are colour diamonds winning over whites due to the value appreciation edge as an investment vehicle? Your take?

The Global Jewelry sector values design. Our Indian sector is more on price point. So, these are two different sectors, poles apart. And internationally, coloured diamonds are more appreciated.

Demand-wise what changes have you noticed in terms of style, design, gold, diamond and coloured stone content jewellery in the jewellery market in India as well as overseas markets?

Design is the key to all markets. The influence of technology has brought a tremendous change into designs, and the designers all over the world are taking advantage of this. They are designing jewellery which is ultra-light and appealing.

excl_20052019_3.png                         Image credit: Laksh Pahuja 


While jewellery in yellow gold in different hues is still popular in most Asian countries, white gold/platinum/silver seems to be in high demand in other global consuming markets. Will silver be the ‘new gold’ world-over going forward? Your views?

No, silver can never replace gold as it tarnishes very easily. And being so malleable and ductile, the jewellery made of silver wears off very easily.

Wrapping up, high-end luxury goods/experiences like luxury vacations, etc., are vying with diamond jewellery, especially to attract millennials attention. What efforts do you think the diamond industry should take to retain the aspirational quality of diamonds permanent?

My suggestion is that De Beers should take the initiative and come up with a marketing strategy. They will have to instill faith in diamonds, as CVD and other diamond simulants are playing a negative impact on their decisions.

Aruna Gaitonde, Editor in Chief of the Asian Bureau, Rough & Polished